The list of ingredients is the most important part of a cosmetic product’s packaging, and also the most difficult to understand. Oils, extracts, emulsifiers, preservatives, fragrances: many appear under names we do not recognize.
Although a product may be presented as natural, organic, or handcrafted, knowing its composition allows us to make more informed choices. In this guide, we explain how to read it, which rules it follows, and what to look for before buying.
What is INCI and what is it used for?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients. Thanks to this nomenclature, cosmetic ingredients can be identified by standardized names on labels.
In the European Union, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 requires ingredients to be listed using their common names, as set out in an official glossary based on INCI. This is why we find names such as:
On the label (INCI) | What it is |
Aqua | Water |
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice | Aloe vera leaf juice |
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter | Shea butter |
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil | Olive oil |
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil | Lavender essential oil |
Parfum | Fragrance composition |
Plants appear under their botanical names in Latin, while the rest of the ingredients are listed in English. A Latin or technical-sounding name does not, by itself, tell us whether an ingredient is natural or synthetic.
To look up an ingredient, you can use CosIng, the European Commission's database. Keep in mind that it is informative: the legal status of each ingredient is established by the Regulation and its annexes.
How are ingredients listed?
The list is not arranged at random. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (Article 19.1.g) establishes precise rules:
Decreasing order by weight. Ingredients are listed from the largest to the smallest amount, according to their weight at the time they are incorporated into the formula.
The 1% rule. Ingredients present at a concentration below 1% may be listed in any order after those present above 1%.
Colouring agents at the end. They are identified by their Colour Index number (for example, CI 77491) and may be placed in any order after the other ingredients.
Nanomaterials are identified. They are followed by the word [nano] in square brackets.
Impurities are not ingredients. Traces present in raw materials are not declared in the ingredient list.
The 1% rule is the most useful one for consumers. It explains why an extract or a highly effective active ingredient may appear at the end of the list: it is often used at a concentration below 1%, and this does not diminish its function within the formula.
It also means that INCI provides guidance, but does not allow us to know the exact concentrations.
Common ingredients in natural cosmetics
A natural formula combines ingredients of plant or mineral origin with others that ensure its texture, stability, and preservation. Not all of them serve the same function.
Vegetable oils and butters.
hey provide emollient properties, contribute to texture, and condition the skin. You will find them listed as Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (sweet almond oil), Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (jojoba), Cocos Nucifera Oil (coconut) or Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (cocoa butter).
Botanical extracts and hydrosols.
Aloe vera, rosemary, calendula, rose, and seaweed are common. Their effect depends on the plant, the extraction method, the concentration, and the rest of the formula: the presence of a plant does not by itself guarantee a particular result.
Clays and minerals.
They appear under their mineral names, such as Kaolin or Montmorillonite.
Emulsifiers and texturizers.
They make it possible to mix water and oil in a stable way and give the product its consistency.
Natural cosmetics are not about simply adding plants to a formula, but about selecting each ingredient and combining them to obtain a safe and stable product.
Essential oils and fragrance allergens
Lavender, rosemary, orange, lemon, mint, and tea tree are used for their aroma and for their function within the formula. The fact that they are natural does not mean that they can be used without taking their concentration into account: they contain molecules that may cause reactions in sensitive individuals.
For this reason, the law requires certain fragrance allergens, such as Linalool, Limonene, or Geraniol, to be listed individually when they exceed a threshold:
Product type | Mandatory declaration from |
Leave-on (cream, serum, body oil) | 0.001% (10 ppm) |
Rinse-off (soap, shampoo, gel) | 0.01% (100 ppm) |
Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 has expanded this list from 24 to more than 80 substances. It is mandatory for new products placed on the market from 31 July 2026, and will apply to all products from 31 July 2028. During this period, you will see labels with longer allergen lists: this does not mean that the product has changed, but that the information is more complete.
If you know that you are sensitive to a particular fragrance or essential oil, this is the part of the INCI that is most important for you to check.
Preservatives: why they are necessary
Any formula containing water can become contaminated with bacteria, yeasts, and moulds, especially once it has been opened. Preservatives protect the product throughout its shelf life, and therefore protect the skin of the person using it.
Only preservatives authorized under Annex V of the Regulation may be used, and always within their maximum permitted concentrations. In our laboratory, we verify the effectiveness of the preservation system of each formula with a challenge test (ISO 11930), which exposes the product to microorganisms and checks whether it controls them.
Anhydrous products, without water, such as body oils or solid cosmetics, can do without preservatives because they provide an environment that is unfavourable to microbes. Therefore, their absence is not, in itself, a sign of better quality: it depends on the type of product.
Does natural always mean better?
Not necessarily. The origin of an ingredient is only one aspect to consider, together with its concentration, the quality of the raw material, the stability, and the preservation of the product. Likewise, a name that sounds chemical does not make an ingredient harmful: everything, including water, is made up of chemicals.
The term “natural” does not have a legal definition in European cosmetics legislation. The most widely used technical reference is ISO 16128, which allows the natural-origin index of a formula to be calculated. Private certifications (COSMOS, NATRUE, and others) add their own criteria.
What is mandatory in the European Union, whether the product is natural or not, is a safety assessment before it is placed on the market. This is carried out by a qualified safety assessor, who analyses each ingredient, its exposure, and the finished product, and signs the Cosmetic Product Safety Report.
Practical example: reading the INCI of our Anti-Ageing Fluid
o put everything explained above into practice, we analyse the ingredient list of our Anti-Ageing Fluid, exactly as it appears on the packaging:
*Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Aqua, *Hyaluronic Acid, *Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil, *Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, *Sodium Anisate, Levulinic Acid, *Sodium Levulinate, *Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, *Equisetum Arvense Leaf Extract, *Hedera Helix Leaf Extract, *Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, *Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, *Hypericum Perforatum Flower Extract, **Geraniol, **Limonene, **Linalool.
*Natural ingredients. **Natural components of essential oils.
Ingredients (INCI) | What they are | Why they are in the formula |
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Aqua | Aloe vera juice, glycerin, and water | They form the base of the fluid. Aloe is the main ingredient and glycerin helps retain water on the skin's surface. |
Hyaluronic Acid | Hyaluronic acid | Humectant that contributes to maintaining skin hydration. |
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil | Lavender essential oil | Provides the product's natural aroma. |
Chamomilla Recutita, Calendula Officinalis, Equisetum Arvense, Hedera Helix, Hamamelis Virginiana, Centella Asiatica, Hypericum Perforatum | Extracts of chamomile, calendula, horsetail, ivy, witch hazel, gotu kola, and St John's wort | Plant extracts that condition and care for the skin. |
Sodium Anisate, Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinate | Sodium anisate, levulinic acid, and sodium levulinate | Skin-conditioning ingredients that also contribute to the stability of the formula. |
Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate | Potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate | Preservatives authorized under Annex V of the Regulation. They protect the fluid against bacteria, yeasts, and moulds once opened. |
Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool | Fragrance allergens naturally present in lavender oil | They are declared by law because they exceed 0.001% in a leave-on product. |
What does this list tell us?
The first three ingredients show that this is a water-based formula, with aloe as its base. This is why it requires a preservation system, whose effectiveness we verify with a challenge test.
Preservatives are legally limited to concentrations well below 1% in a leave-on product. We are therefore in the free-order zone: the fact that centella or St John's wort appear after the preservatives does not mean that they are less important in the formula.
If you are sensitive to lavender or any of its components, the last three ingredients are the ones you should check.
How to choose a cosmetic product based on its ingredients
You do not need to memorize hundreds of names. Just ask yourself five questions:
What do I really need? Knowing this helps avoid unnecessary purchases.
What type of product is it? A soap, a facial cream, and a body oil have different functions and formulas.
What is listed among the first ingredients? The main ingredients define the product.
Does it contain anything my skin does not tolerate? Pay particular attention to fragrance allergens at the end of the list.
Does the formula make sense as a whole? A single ingredient does not make a product good or bad.
Reading INCI is a tool, not a source of concern. Start with the basics and, over time, you will recognize most of the names.
At Natural SHUI®, we formulate and manufacture in our own laboratory, using selected ingredients that serve a function within each formula. Discover our Natural Facial Cosmetics, Natural Artisan Soaps, Natural Solid Cosmetics, Natural Body Care, and Natural Essential Oils.
Frequently asked questions
What does INCI mean in cosmetics?
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients: the international nomenclature that identifies cosmetic ingredients using the same name on all labels.
Does a Latin name mean that an ingredient is natural?
No. Plants are named in Latin by botanical convention, but the name alone does not indicate the origin or processing of the ingredient.
Is the first ingredient the one present in the largest quantity?
Yes. The list follows decreasing order by weight, but ingredients below 1% may appear in any order at the end.
Are preservatives bad for the skin?
No. Only those authorized by European legislation are permitted, within maximum limits, and they protect the product against microbial contamination.
Why do some labels now have more allergens?
Because Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 has expanded the list of fragrance allergens that must be declared, from 24 to more than 80.
Are natural cosmetics suitable for all skin types?
Not necessarily. Natural ingredients may also not be suitable for everyone; it is advisable to take the skin type and the complete formula into account.
Conclusion
Reading INCI is the simplest way to make informed choices. Knowing the rules governing the order of ingredients, recognizing common ingredients, and knowing where to look for allergens allows you to look beyond the words on the front of the packaging.
About the author.
Christophe Morote is a biochemist and microbiologist from the Université de Montpellier and a cosmetic safety assessor (University of Barcelona). He is the founder of Natural SHUI® and Alpiguisa Innovación, an ISO 22716-certified cosmetic laboratory in Valencia, where he formulates, analyses, and assesses the safety of natural cosmetic products.